Saturday, July 3, 2010

Dining on Rudolph and berries.

In this journey to the other side of the globe, I found myself with a 12 hour layover in Helsinki. (That’s in Finland, in case you’re wondering. Finland is in Europe. Up there by Sweden. And Russia.) Now – if you’re anything like me, you (sadly?) have never really thought about Finland. I honestly think the only time the word “Helsinki” ever crossed my lips was when I was playing “Where in the World is Carmen Santiago?” circa 1993. Her hijnx always seemed to bring her here.
So, after an eight hour flight with about an hour of sleep I marched out of the airport searching for a bus to take me to the city. Mission: accomplished.

Initial thoughts:

1. Shit. I don’t speak Finnish. And that sign has some really long words.
2. Wow, is it green here. The 25 minute ride from the airport felt like a tour through northern Wisconsin except that everyone was thin, blonde and blue-eyed. And speaking Finnish.
3. This capital city is like no other I’ve seen. It borders on bucolic. And they speak Finnish.

About that third point, this is a major European city – but why does it feel so serene? Kind? Pleasantly subdued? I guess that sort of begs the question – is this considered urban? It’s definitely not suburban, far from rural. Is it urban lite? Diet urban? Does it matter? Probably not.
Despite the differences between major cities around the world, there are certain experiences where we can always find common ground. There will always be sports fanatics. There will always be public transportation (I’m assuming this is true…). There will always be people (ahem… me) who show up bright eyed and looking for some personal renaissance. And – what makes me the happiest – there will always be outdoor food markets. From Wylie Dufresne checking out produce at Union Square like they’re match.com profiles (“Hmm. On paper you’re exactly what I need, but you just look a little wilted.”) to the women who I’ll undoubtedly see at the Old Delhi spice markets tomorrow, we all gather in a public place to prepare for one of the greatest human experiences: shared meals.

Today was no exception. I found myself spending hours perusing aisle after aisle of raspberries, giant beans, brilliantly colored yellow mushrooms, cured salmon, fried mackerel, and pastries that defy Weight Watchers points. I even had a reindeer sandwich. Yes, Mr. Claus. Slice up Rudy and put him on a baguette. A wee bit gamey but delicious, nonetheless. Dessert was absolutely divine: a pint of the best strawberries I’ve ever tasted. Apparently, it’s the 20 hours of sunlight Helsinki receives in the summer that cause these little nuggets to stain your hands with their blood-red juice and surprise you with how sweet they are without being saccharine.

The best part of lunch, though? It was a shared experience. I sat side-by-side with hundreds (thousands?) of other market-goers and we had a moment together. A kid laughed at me when he saw how covered I’d become in strawberry juice. I shared an anticipatory gaze with a woman as we both ordered blueberry tarts and were waiting for them to arrive to our tables. A waitress and I laughed as she approached me speaking in Finnish and I looked like a deer in headlights (who then later ended up between two pieces of bread). No one ever said traveling by yourself had to be a solitary affair.


1 comment:

  1. Joe, I'm sure you will not be alone long, you always find adventure when you travel! What a wonderful description of your journey so far, can't wait to hear more!!!
    Therese

    ReplyDelete